what's yellow and black and green and yellow all over? microjig, maker of the grr-ripper. work safer, work smarter. the first thing i need to do is cut thesetwo, 10' long boards down to manageable lengths.
routers woodworking nz, by ripping all the boards to 7" wide, i'm also squaring off the rounded edges. since the tabletop starts out as an octagon, i need to cut all the miters to 22.5 degrees.
i'm cutting these on my miter saw, then i'll try to get more accurate miterson my tablesaw. i think i'll be able to get much more accurate cuts using this brand new miter gauge a viewer sent me. it looks like they are going to fit togetherreally nicely. now i need to cut a rabbet on the inside edgeof each board. i'll join the octagon together using pocketscrews. i'm going to glue and screw these all together. these are 1x4s that i'm ripping down to 3"wide. i'm going to screw all these boards in fromunderneath, no glue.
i'm going to start with the center board andwork my way to the sides, cutting each board to size. i clamped the board in place along that rabbet and that should hold it so i can put the screws in. i can slide it over and do the same on thisside. the rest of them, i'm going to space usingthe quarter inch piece of plywood. pro tip! i discovered it's important to drill a pilothole in the â¾" board or it will split. this board is going to need its corner cutoff,
and that is a 45 degree angle. after a lot of trimming and testing and testingand trimming, i finally got it to fit, just right. all the edge boards are a little easier, they have 45 degree angles on both sides. i spent a lot of time sanding this to levelout any of the uneven surfaces. i'll probably still come back to it and dosome finer sanding once it's all assembled. here i'm finding the center point and drawinga circle. i'm building the entire base and legs outof 2x4s.
i'm cutting all the pieces to their exactdimensions using my tablesaw. i'm going to join all the center pieces togetherusing half-lap joints. and all that means is i'm going to cut outa large notch, half the thickness of the wood in each piece. i can make sure it's centered by flippingthe board end-to-end and using only one stop block as a reference. those two notches just interlock. without changing my blades, i can cut rabbetson the ends of the top boards. i'll start the assembly by glueing these crosspieces together.
and i'm also putting some screws in. i just don't want to put any screws in themiddle where i need to drill a hole for the umbrella. to assemble the base, i'm going to start byattaching the legs to the lower cross brace. i decided this needed some clamping pressurealso, to help draw these joints together. this cross brace drops down into these rabbets. these 1 â½" diameter holes are for the umbrella. the idea here is that the tabletop will reston this rabbet, rather than on these thinner slats. the way that fits in there, i don't reallyneed to attach the top, but i'm going to put one screw in each legjust to make it easier to move around.
i'm using my router to round over the topedge. i'm finishing this with an exterior, water-based,spar urethane. i think three coats of that spar urethaneis really going to protect this redwood from the weather. if you'd like to make your own patio table,check down in the description for a free set of plans. and if this is your first time here to woodworkingfor mere mortals, welcome! you should know that i post brand new woodworkingvideos every friday and i'd love to have you subscribe. and hey! if you're a mere mortal and would like to be in one of my videos, please click on my most recent mere minutesvideo to learn how,
just like liz did! "hi, i'm liz, and i'm a me-mo from new zealand."
